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University Museum of Bergen

Bridging the past and present: textile conservation and heritage science

"As a conservator and heritage scientist, I am thrilled by touching the past and literally transferring the experience to the present", says Hana Lukesova at the University Museum of Bergen.

Hana Lukesova
Fabrics, clothing, and accessories have been integral to human survival and cultural expression for centuries. Conservation and heritage science, while often seen as primarily practical or technical, hold significant value as areas of scientific inquiry in their own right, according to Hana Lukesova. The top picture is a S谩pmi bag that has been exhibited at the 200-jubilee exhibition at the University Museum of Bergen since April 25. The bottom pictures are traditional clothing from Karasjok and Hardanger.
Photo:
Top left: Hana Lukesova, Bottom left: Noomie Kielatis, Right: Adnan Icagic, University Museum of Bergen.

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聽at the Department of Collection Management, ,聽explores a fascinating field that merges arts and crafts, cultural heritage and natural sciences.聽At its core, conservation and heritage science involves the study and preservation of various material groups. Among them, the investigations on textiles, fabrics, clothing, and accessories have a significant role, as objects made of soft organic materials have played a crucial part in shaping human cultures for centuries.

鈥淎s a conservator and heritage scientist, I am thrilled by touching the past and literally transferring the experience to the present. Creating the 鈥渢ime bridge鈥 by applying approaches combining humanities and natural sciences is a real privilege鈥 Lukesova says.

Impacting society through heritage science

According to Lukesova, conservation and heritage science play a critical role in shaping how we connect with past and present cultural identities. These fields go beyond the actual care taking of heritage objects - they support the cultural connections that define who we are, individually and collectively. By preserving material culture, we help sustain but also reshape and transform the diverse narratives and traditions that create the backbone of societal identity.

鈥淎s the world undergoes rapid social and environmental change, the impact of heritage science becomes even more vital. It encourages us to listen to and uplift a plurality of voices, including those from Indigenous and historically marginalized communities. Through ethical, inclusive, and adaptive practices, conservation can serve as a powerful tool for cultural understanding and continuity鈥, Lukesova states, adding:

鈥淎t the same time, we must remain mindful of the risk of creating cultural distance. This is why integrating thoughtful methodologies, emerging technologies, and interdisciplinary collaboration is essential. When done with care and purpose, conservation and heritage science can make knowledge more accessible, deepen public engagement, and ensure that cultural heritage continues to resonate meaningfully across generations鈥.

Art and crafts, heritage science and conservation

Lukesova鈥檚 previous work (see more info in fact box) on the intersection of applied art, heritage science, and conservation, with a particular emphasis on the material analysis of cultural heritage, has laid the foundation for her current plans to dive into the world of Arctic Indigenous material culture in a new research project titled "S谩pmi feather bags 鈥 material choices versus their application and functionality鈥.

鈥淭he Arctic Collection of the University Museum of Bergen has been of particular interest to me, especially the material knowledge of S谩pmi and Inuit peoples. Their deep understanding of natural materials - such as skins, feathers, and furs - has proven instrumental in adapting to extreme environments, and their practices offer valuable insights into sustainable resource use. My research aims to highlight the relevance of Indigenous material expertise in addressing contemporary environmental challenges, particularly in fostering sustainable attitudes and minimizing consumption鈥, Lukesova says.

In her upcoming project she will explore how S谩pmi knowledge embedded in these culturally significant objects can inform both scientific understanding and modern sustainable design practices. This represents a natural progression from her previous work and reinforces the commitment to bridging scientific inquiry with Indigenous knowledge systems through material-based research.

鈥淗owever, the advancements in conservation of cultural heritage do not only mean the study of past materials. It also requires updating the modern methods on actual care taking and mitigating degradation risks in the future鈥, she says.

Future research聽

According to Lukesova, some key areas that require further research include the scientific understanding of historical and archaeological materials, especially those that are rare, degraded, or poorly documented. There is also a need for improved analytical methods that are nondestructive or minimally invasive and capable of providing detailed information about material composition and production techniques - as well as their degradation.

鈥淕reater integration of natural scientific analysis with cultural contexts and humanities is essential to fully interpret the significance and use of heritage objects鈥, she says.

Through her research, Lukesova contributes by using advanced methods from natural sciences to study complex and fragile historical materials. This approach helps bridge scientific inquiry with cultural insight, supporting more informed conservation strategies and deeper material understanding.

鈥淢y research applies heritage science methods to study material composition, usage, and sustainability practices in the past. This work helps build a more comprehensive understanding of past material usage and informs responsible approaches to conservation and sustainable material practices today鈥, she says.